GFW 2015: Ngoni Chikwenengere, University of Northampton

Graduate Fashion Week
showcased more than 1,000 fashion student and graduates and to give you
insight into the very best of the emerging talent, FashionUnited attended
the university catwalk shows and went through design portfolios to bring
you some of the next generation of fashion designers you need to watch out
for.

One of the highlights from the University of Northampton graduation
show was womenswear designer Ngoni Chikwenengere and her powerful all-black
collection inspired by feminism, femininity and architectural shapes.

After her collection hit the catwalk at the Truman Brewery,
FashionUnited chatted to the talented designer to find out more about the
inspiration behind her collection, her plans for the future, and why she
would recommend Northampton to study at.

What attracted you to a career in fashion?

“Fashion was always a topic of fascination for me, growing up in
Zimbabwe I remember how I used to devour the copies of Vogue and Harpers my
mother would bring me back from her travels to and making collages and
sketches of pieces I adored. When we moved to England, Fashion TV was
always on whenever the remote was in my possession and almost every book I
bought was about fashion.

“What pushed me to study design as opposed to pursuing anything else in
fashion is that I felt there wasn’t anything out there for a girl like me.
I see fashion as the ultimate art form and fantasy and wanting to be a part
of that is what drives me.”

Tell us about your graduating collection – what was the inspiration
behind it?

“My graduate collection was inspired by Femininity and Feminism. I
wanted to create garments that echoed strength but also echoed femininity.
There is a lot of talk now more than ever about Feminism and what it is and
I wanted to show my thoughts on it – that feminism and femininity aren’t
mutually exclusive. My pieces and the fabrics I chose perfectly juxtaposed
the two ideas but also made them cohesive.”

What are the signature piece/pieces?

“My signature piece to me definitely has to be the second catwalk look
My Warrior woman with a long double slit silk top, hand-stitched leather
belt and cuff and stretch lamb leggings. I feel it showcases strength and
femininity in a balanced way.

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Did you have a specific audience in mind when designing your final
collection? Who is your target customer?

I design with a strong woman in mind, the kind of woman who knows
herself and isn’t afraid of taking risks. Someone full of self confidence
and self awareness. The NRC woman is all about quality statement wardrobe
staples that are timeless for example my floor length cashmere coat.

What made you choose to study at The University of Northampton?

“I decided to study at The University of Northampton as I’d been there
for my Art foundation and knew there was plenty of space, one-on-one time
with tutors and many different opportunities available. Whereas many other
universities had large class sizes, no real space and tutor time was
limited, also the facilities weren’t as good.

“I was very lucky to win two awards while studying at the University of
Northampton The Curriers Scholarship, which funded my leathers and suedes
seen in my graduate collection, and also the Maggie Barwell Scholarship
that gave me a 5,000 pound grand each year towards the cost of my studies.
What do you plan to do now that you’ve graduated?

“Now that I am about to graduate I plan on taking some time to travel
and then I plan on working in fashion at a label I love and learning and
absorbing as much as I can because I feel the real learning especially when
pursuing a creative career happens outside of the university walls.”

Where do you hope to see yourself/your label in five years time?

“In five years time I hope to be surrounded by a great team of people and
perhaps in the position to start my own brand or climbing the ranks within
a fantastic brand.”

What impact do you want to make on fashion?

“That is a big question. I would say the impact I want to make is to
push the idea of timelessness. I am all about staples that cost more as
they are made from amazing materials and tailored well and will last
forever as opposed to throwaway pieces. I believe garments should be
treasured, dressing for me isn’t about the trend it is about how that
garment makes you feel when you put it on, what memories it holds for you
and of course how it fits.”

What was your Graduate Fashion Week experience like?

“Three weeks before GFW we had to present our collections for selection
to our tutors and members of the industry. Being one of the 15 picked was an
amazing feeling but nothing beats seeing my collection on that catwalk and
also the amazing reactions from friends and family. Being a creative
showcasing your work is very revelatory because you are in essence you are
putting yourself out there and it’s definitely nerve wracking.”

What designers/labels do you most admire? Who would you love to work or collaborate with?

“I have always immersed myself in fashion so I have a very diverse
appreciation for many labels and designers, among them Gareth Pugh, The
Row, Rick Owens, Giambattista Valli, Ann Demeulemeester, Ellery and Dice
Kayek. This of course is just a short version of my list so many designers
are owning their niche’s and creating amazing work. I would love to work or
collaborate with someone with a solid vision, appreciate for working with
fantastic materials and an inspiring aesthetic.”

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?

“Know who you are, what you are and your brand. I think it’s important
to have a strong brand identity as that is how your core customers will
relate to you.”

Images: Ngoni Rutendo Chikwenengere