The return of On|Off at LFW

London Fashion Week was really put back on the map this season with the
influx of emerging talent hitting the scene and that in part was due to the
successful return of On|Off, the non-profit showcase founded by Lee
Lapthorne, to the LFW schedule.

The emerging design talent organisation has been responsible for
nurturing many big names on the London fashion scene including Gareth Pugh,
JW Anderson, Roksanda, Louise Gray and Peter Pilotto, and over the summer
Lapthorne launched a crowdfunding campaign to “continue to support the next
generation of designers”.

The organisation raised 25,000 pounds via indiegogo.com and hosted a
four-day schedule of catwalk shows and presentation from the hottest
emerging talent to hit London including Clio Peppiatt who wowed with her
futuristic Barbie doll models wearing prints featuring ray guns and stars,
Moon J, a talented Korean-born, London-based designer who utilises colour
and textiles in her collections and Kuala Lumpur-based Yii, who was
inspired by the adventurousness of youth with boxy silhouettes, collaging
graphic inserts, and textured knitwear.

Over the course of the four days, On|Off showcased 12 designers, five
presentations and seven catwalk shows, and had a number of high-profile
editors and buyers come into see the collections, including Sara Maino of
Italian Vogue, Suzy Lau of Style Bubble, the BFC’s Sarah Mower, Gianluca
Longo from W Magazine, Jefferson Hack from Dazed, Tim Blanks, as well as
buyers from Selfridges, Browns, and Liberty.

On|Off successful returns to LFW schedule

So why does On|Off attract the best new designers? Lapthorne suggests
it’s because his organisation doesn’t just showcase them but also “nurtures
and consults” them, he added: “We offer a holistic package to new emerging
designers and after many seasons we understand their needs. We have never
compromised on quality and we have a track record for discovering
talent.”

Director of AntWaller & Co, Anthony Waller, who had a number of
designers showing at On|Off this season said: “It was exciting to see
On|Off return to London Fashion Week. Once again not only do we have a
reputable platform that can promote tomorrows talent but one that has a
proven track record.

“The selection of brands this season was perfect and it will be very
exciting to see how On|Off grows in February. Maybe we could convince Lee
to move into men’s fashion week as well!”

Looking to the future of the event is also something that Lapthorne is
thinking about: “We have already started our plans and evaluated our
September’s event. We will build on our successes and strengthen those
elements that need developing. We have secured the venue for the future
too.”

But Lapthorne also pointed out there is a burning question surrounding
fashion week – who are these shows really for?, “I observed front row
buyers at LFW main shows watching amazing shows – looking poker-faced and
staring at the floor to only glance at passing models. Who are these shows
really for? Who is interested? Buyers? Press? Consumers? I have ideas and
I’m bubbling with the future of showcasing – but it’s something that needs
to be discussed.”

On|Off launched for spring/summer 2003 with four catwalk shows and six
exhibition designers, for autumn/winter 2006 Gareth Pugh held his first
catwalk show, and in spring/summer 2006 the platform was the first to
podcast all catwalk shows to its website and on iTunes. Other highlights
include the debut of Peter Pilotto in spring/summer 2007, the return of Pam
Hogg to LFW for autumn/winter 2009, and for spring/summer 2012 the
organisation was awarded CoolBrands status, marking the first time a
fashion event had been given the accolade.

Images: On|Off SS16

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